Behind the Look: How Manicurist Michelle Saunders Nails Editorial Aesthetics

From giving celebs their first manicures to running a successful salon

When you flip through a magazine and see high-fashion editorials and ads, what pops out at you? The hair, the makeup, the fashion? Sure, but look a little closer and you’ll see that each model also has impeccably manicured nails, and that’s thanks to skilled manicurists like Michelle Saunders. Her work has graced the pages of publications like W and Vogue Paris and appeared in high-fashion ad campaigns for Burberry, Saint Laurent, Valentino, and many other top brands.

After 30 years in the self-care business, it’s safe to say that Saunders has mastered the art of the manicure while amassing a celebrity clientele that includes Michael B. Jordan, Pink, Julia Roberts, and Zac Efron. She’s also paving the way for the next generation of master manicurists by creating opportunities for growth in her own business, Saunders and James Nail Care. Here’s how she turned a childhood dream into a flourishing career as a celebrity nail stylist and industry icon.

From the family salon to editorial manicure pro

Saunders’ first foray into the self-care industry took place in her childhood home. As she told Boulevard, “My mom had a hair salon when I was growing up, so I actually never went to a salon. The salon was always at my home, so everybody would come over for services.” Saunders cut her teeth practicing manicures and pedicures on her sisters, which is how she discovered that she had an affinity for nails — and really enjoyed giving the services.

Originally from the San Francisco area, Saunders completed cosmetology school in the early 90s and found herself jetting between NorCal and Los Angeles once her career began to take off. Doing nails for photo shoots and television shows often required her to be on location in LA, where she would tend to the nails of major stars and up-and-comers. “I gave [Michael B. Jordan] his first manicure,” Saunders said. “He had no entourage, no nothing, and was so sweet and so humble and kind.”

Working with stars like Jordan and seeing her work everywhere from high-fashion editorials to American Idol was gratifying for Saunders, but the instability of the job was a challenge. Long, inconsistent hours, unpredictable schedules, and constantly changing locations made the work beyond demanding. Even though this was a standard working setup for freelance manicurists, Saunders believed she could improve upon it — so she created her own employment model, which she calls the “do and go.” She set different rates for quick jobs, half days, and full days to ensure she was properly compensated for her time. “You have to be very proactive,” she advised.

Creating a more equitable industry

While Saunders previously ran a small nail business in the San Francisco area, her dream was “a main street, storefront-branded high-end nail salon.” In 2019, she and her husband opened Saunders and James Nail Care in Oakland, CA. With “an emphasis on personalized service and custom nail art,” Saunders and James offers “a serene, spa-like environment” where clients can learn more about the overall health of their nails and choose from a curated selection of creative nail art. She enlisted the help of Boulevard’s self-care business software to manage scheduling, payments, and more.

Like when she was a freelance editorial manicurist, Saunders found the standard employment agreements between providers and salon owners lacking. She wanted Saunders and James to be a place where aspiring manicurists could learn and grow, so she created clear titles and levels of progression. Providers start out as assistants as they hone their customer service skills, making their way up to lead manicurists once they can deliver the client experiences expected of a high-end salon. While many self-care businesses either pay a salary or commissions based on services rendered, Saunders and James does both.

Saunders also noticed a shift towards a “booth model” for more experienced providers. In this business model, manicurists pay rent on a space and keep the profits from their services. It has upsides and downsides; while it allows the most skilled manicurists to take control of their careers, income can be unpredictable. In 2024, Saunders and James opened its second salon, Duo Nail Studio, to put a new spin on the booth model.

At Duo, lead manicurists who are ready to manage their own workloads can rent a booth while offsetting some of the risks of going solo. They set their own working hours and run their books while working in a supportive environment with an existing client base. Saunders’ advice to other self-care business owners: There’s no one-size-fits-all approach to success. Don’t be afraid to evolve with the industry and experiment to figure out what works for you.

Finding inspiration in negative space

The nail art on the Saunders and James website is a testament to Michelle Saunders’ creativity. The designs are stylish and often subtle, with colorful twists on classics like the French manicure. “My eye is still attracted to the minimal aesthetic of negative space,” Saunders told NailPro. “Combined with a pop of color, it creates a modern, wearable design for everyone."

In addition to incorporating negative space into her designs, Saunders also draws inspiration from fashion runways and architecture, particularly bridges and arches. “Keeping the lines simple in nail art is what makes it feel current,” she said.

Her secret to successful photo shoots? Use a different hand for each design — “double the looks in the time allotted” — and keep your workstation organized. It’s also important to collaborate with the photographer “because it’s your manicure art that’s being shot.”

Even with decades of experience, an impressive portfolio, and two nail studios to her name, Michelle Saunders isn’t about to slow down. She continues to challenge traditional employment models and ensure her stylists are in control of their careers, and she hopes to open an additional location for both wage-based and commission-based employees. “I took the hard route, and I love it,” she said. “I can’t wait to see what’s next.”